Getting a reptile setup wrong isn't just inconvenient — it can be fatal for your animal. Whether you're bringing home a bearded dragon, ball python, or leopard gecko, nailing the basics before day one is non-negotiable. Use this reptile care requirements checklist to make sure nothing gets missed.
Enclosure Setup
The enclosure is your reptile's entire world, so size and material matter immediately.
- Bearded dragons need a minimum 120-gallon tank as adults (4' x 2' x 2')
- Ball pythons do well in a 4' x 2' x 2' PVC enclosure
- Leopard geckos require at least a 20-gallon long tank, though 40-gallon is better
- Blue-tongue skinks need 4' x 2' floor space minimum
Glass tanks work for desert species but lose humidity fast. PVC or wooden enclosures retain heat and humidity better for tropical species. Front-opening doors reduce stress during feeding and handling compared to top-opening lids.
Secure the lid with clips or locks — escape attempts are common, especially with snakes.
Substrate Selection
Substrate affects humidity, hygiene, and burrowing behavior. Never use cedar or pine — the aromatic oils are toxic to reptiles.
Good substrate options by species type:
- Desert species (bearded dragons, leopard geckos): Excavator clay, tile, or bioactive sand/soil mixes
- Tropical/humid species (crested geckos, tree boas): Coconut fiber, ABG mix, or sphagnum moss
- Ball pythons: Cypress mulch, coconut fiber, or a bioactive setup
- Corn snakes: Aspen shavings (avoid aspen for species needing high humidity)
Spot clean daily and do a full substrate replacement every 4–8 weeks for non-bioactive setups.
Temperature Gradients
Reptiles are ectotherms — they regulate body temperature by moving between warm and cool zones. A single heat source pointed at the center of the tank is one of the most common beginner mistakes.
Your enclosure needs a warm side, a cool side, and a basking spot:
- Bearded dragon basking spot: 100–110°F; cool side: 80–85°F; nighttime: no lower than 65°F
- Ball python warm side: 88–92°F; cool side: 76–80°F
- Leopard gecko warm hide: 88–92°F; cool side: 72–75°F
- Crested gecko: 72–78°F (they're sensitive to heat above 82°F)
Use a digital thermometer with a probe — never rely on the stick-on dial thermometers that came with the tank. An infrared temperature gun gives you accurate spot readings across the entire enclosure.
For heating equipment, under-tank heaters (UTH) work for belly heat but must be regulated with a thermostat. Ceramic heat emitters (CHE) and deep heat projectors (DHP) are better for ambient air temperature. Radiant heat panels are ideal for larger enclosures.
Always use a thermostat. Without one, your heating element can overheat and kill your animal.
Lighting Requirements
UVB lighting is essential for diurnal (day-active) species like bearded dragons, blue-tongue skinks, and many chameleons. It allows them to synthesize Vitamin D3 and properly metabolize calcium.
- Use a T5 HO UVB bulb with a UVI appropriate for your species (bearded dragons need UVI 3–6 in the basking zone)
- Replace UVB bulbs every 6–12 months even if they still produce visible light — UVB output degrades before the light burns out
- Nocturnal species like leopard geckos and ball pythons don't require UVB, though low-level exposure is still beneficial
Maintain a 12-hour light/12-hour dark cycle to support natural circadian rhythms.
Humidity and Hydration
Many reptile health problems — respiratory infections, stuck sheds, dehydration — trace back to incorrect humidity.
- Ball pythons: 60–80% humidity; spike to 80–90% during shed
- Crested geckos: 60–80%, with a nightly misting cycle
- Bearded dragons: 30–40% (too high causes respiratory issues)
- Leopard geckos: 30–40% ambient, with a moist hide for shedding
Use a digital hygrometer, not an analog dial. Misting bottles, foggers, and automated misting systems (like the Mistking) help maintain consistency.
Feeding Schedule
Feed appropriately sized prey — no wider than the widest part of your reptile's head.
- Bearded dragon juveniles: Daily insects + daily greens; adults eat greens daily, insects 3x weekly
- Ball pythons: Every 7–10 days (juveniles), every 10–14 days (adults); frozen/thawed rodents preferred
- Leopard geckos: Every other day (juveniles), 2–3x weekly (adults); live dubia roaches or crickets
- Crested geckos: Meal Replacement Powder (Repashy or Pangea) every other day + occasional insects
Dust feeders with calcium + D3 powder 2–3 times per week, and a multivitamin supplement once per week.
Finding Supplies You Can Trust
Sourcing quality enclosures, thermostats, UVB fixtures, and feeders from reliable vendors makes a real difference. Mercoly lets you compare and find trusted Reptile & Amphibian Supplies providers in one place, so you're not spending hours tracking down reviews across multiple sites.
Use this checklist before your reptile arrives — then start browsing vetted suppliers today.