Direct-to-garment (DTG) printing and screen printing are both proven methods for custom apparel, but they serve different business models, order volumes, and profit margins. If you're scaling a custom apparel operation, choosing the right technology—or offering both—directly impacts your production costs, turnaround times, and the quality of work you can deliver. This guide breaks down the real differences so you can make an informed decision for your shop.
How They Work: The Fundamental Difference
Screen printing applies ink through a mesh screen onto fabric, requiring one screen per color. DTG printers, by contrast, work like oversized inkjet machines, spraying color directly onto the garment. Screen printing demands more setup time upfront but runs fast once you're in production. DTG requires minimal setup but processes one shirt at a time—or a few simultaneously, depending on your equipment's platen capacity.
Cost Per Unit: Where Volume Matters
For small orders (under 20 pieces), DTG typically costs $8–18 per shirt including labor and materials. Screen printing for the same volume runs $12–25 per piece because you're amortizing screen costs across fewer items.
At 50+ units, screen printing flips the math. Setup costs remain fixed, so your per-unit cost drops to $3–8. DTG stays relatively constant per shirt regardless of volume, making it uneconomical for bulk orders.
Consider this scenario: A client orders 100 t-shirts with a four-color design. Screen printing costs roughly $500–800 total ($5–8 per shirt). DTG would cost $800–1,800 ($8–18 per shirt). For 500 shirts, screen printing becomes $1,500–2,500 ($3–5 per shirt), making DTG clearly the wrong choice.
Speed and Turnaround
Screen printing batches are faster in production—you can print 200+ shirts per hour once screens are prepared. But setup takes 30–60 minutes per color. Total turnaround for a rush 50-piece order: 3–5 business days minimum.
DTG eliminates screen setup, so a 10-piece rush order can ship next day. However, printing 100 pieces takes longer than screen printing the same batch. For same-day orders, DTG wins. For bulk deadlines, screen printing excels.
Design and Color Capabilities
DTG handles photographic detail, gradients, and unlimited colors without extra cost—your design prints exactly as created. Screen printing excels with solid colors and bold graphics; more than four colors increases complexity and cost significantly.
A client wanting a photo-quality image of their team on a polo shirt? DTG is your tool. A client with a two-color logo for 200 hoodies? Screen printing is cheaper and faster.
Equipment Investment and Space
A quality DTG printer (Epson, Brother, or Kornit) runs $3,000–15,000 depending on platen size and speed. Screen printing setup (exposure unit, press, squeegees, screens, ink) costs $2,000–5,000 for a basic operation, scaling to $8,000–20,000 for commercial-grade equipment.
DTG printers occupy less floor space but require humidity control and regular maintenance. Screen printing presses can be cramped in tight shops but are more forgiving environmentally.
Durability and Fabric Compatibility
Screen-printed designs last longer (50+ washes) and feel more durable on heavier fabrics like sweatshirts and canvas. DTG performs well on 100% cotton (30–40 wash cycles) but struggles on polyester blends and dark fabrics without pre-treatment.
If your customers expect premium durability on workwear or athletic apparel, screen printing builds trust. DTG suits fashion-forward, limited-run designs where longevity is secondary.
The Hybrid Approach
Many growing businesses run both. Use DTG for custom orders under 30 pieces and photographic designs. Reserve screen printing for bulk corporate orders, athletic teams, and merchandise runs. This mix maximizes your quote range and margins.
Listing your capabilities on Mercoly—including both printing methods, minimum order quantities, and turnaround times—helps customers find you for the right projects and win leads you'd otherwise miss.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can DTG print on dark shirts? Yes, but you need white underbase ink first, adding $2–4 per shirt and reducing design vibrancy. Screen printing handles dark fabrics better without pre-treatment.
Q: What's the best entry point if I'm starting a custom apparel business? Start with DTG if you're doing custom one-offs and online orders; it requires less upfront skill. Add screen printing once you're getting bulk requests, as margins improve significantly at volume.
Q: Should I turn down small orders? No—DTG makes small orders profitable. Small orders also build brand loyalty; many customers return for larger batches once satisfied.
Ready to grow your apparel business? List your services today and connect with customers actively searching for custom printing solutions in your area.