Microdermabrasion and dermaplaning both strip away dead skin, but they work through completely different mechanisms—and the results vary significantly depending on your skin type and goals. Choosing between them matters because picking the wrong one can leave you frustrated or worse, irritated. Let's break down how they actually compare so you can make an informed decision before booking.
How Microdermabrasion Works
Microdermabrasion uses a handheld device that sprays tiny crystals (usually aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate) or a diamond tip across your skin while simultaneously vacuuming away the debris. The abrasive action physically buffs away the outermost layer of dead skin cells, stimulating collagen production underneath.
A typical session lasts 30–45 minutes and costs between $100–$300 per treatment, depending on your location and the provider's expertise. Most people need 4–6 sessions spaced 2–4 weeks apart to see meaningful results, making it a commitment rather than a one-off fix.
How Dermaplaning Works
Dermaplaning is a manual technique where an esthetician uses a sterile, surgical-grade blade held at a 45-degree angle to gently scrape away dead skin and fine facial hair (peach fuzz). It's low-tech but requires genuine skill—the blade must be angled correctly to avoid cuts or irritation.
Sessions typically run 30 minutes and cost $75–$200 per visit. Most people see immediate results and often book monthly maintenance appointments. Unlike microdermabrasion, dermaplaning doesn't require a series; you can get results from a single session, though regular treatments maintain that glow.
Depth of Exfoliation and Intensity
Microdermabrasion penetrates deeper into the epidermis, making it stronger for addressing fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation. This deeper action means more noticeable collagen stimulation but also more downtime—expect mild redness and sensitivity for 24–48 hours afterward.
Dermaplaning is gentler and more superficial. It's excellent for removing the top layer of dead skin and fuzz, giving you an immediate smooth, radiant appearance. The trade-off is that it won't tackle deeper scarring or significant texture issues as effectively.
Skin Type Considerations
Microdermabrasion works best for:
- Normal to oily skin
- Acne-prone skin (the suction removes debris from pores)
- Those with deeper scars or pronounced hyperpigmentation
- People who don't mind visible redness post-treatment
Dermaplaning is ideal for:
- Sensitive skin
- Dry or dehydrated skin (it doesn't cause irritation)
- Those who want immediate results without downtime
- People concerned about facial hair removal alongside exfoliation
Avoid microdermabrasion if you have active acne, rosacea, or very sensitive skin. Skip dermaplaning if you're prone to ingrown hairs or have extremely reactive skin.
Downtime and Recovery
Microdermabrasion requires actual recovery time. Your skin will be red, possibly slightly swollen, and you should avoid makeup, heavy exercise, and sun exposure for at least 24 hours. Many people schedule these treatments on Friday for weekend healing.
Dermaplaning has essentially zero downtime. You can apply makeup immediately and go about your day. Your skin may feel slightly tender, but visible redness is minimal. This convenience is a major selling point for busy clients.
Results Timeline and Longevity
With microdermabrasion, improvements appear gradually over the series. By session three or four, you'll notice smoother texture, reduced pore size, and finer lines. Results peak around week 8–12 and fade over 3–6 months, necessitating maintenance treatments.
Dermaplaning delivers instant gratification—your skin looks polished the same day. The smoothness lasts 3–4 weeks before dead skin naturally rebuilds, which is why monthly appointments are common.
Cost Comparison
For a full course of microdermabrasion (6 sessions), expect $600–$1,800. For dermaplaning on a monthly maintenance schedule over a year, you're looking at $900–$2,400. Neither is cheap, but dermaplaning's lower per-session cost and no downtime make it more accessible for many people.
If you're unsure which treatment suits your skin, many spas and med-spas offer consultations. Platforms like Mercoly help you compare trusted microdermabrasion and HydraFacial providers in your area, read verified reviews, and book directly—taking the guesswork out of finding the right professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I do microdermabrasion and dermaplaning together? Some spas offer combination treatments, but back-to-back exfoliation is risky; most professionals recommend spacing them 2–3 weeks apart to avoid over-exfoliating.
Q: Will dermaplaning cause my facial hair to grow back thicker? No—this is a myth. Hair grows back at the same thickness; it just appears stubbly because the blade creates a blunt edge rather than the natural taper of razor growth.
Q: Which works better with HydraFacial treatments? HydraFacial pairs well with both, though many providers recommend dermaplaning beforehand (no downtime) rather than microdermabrasion (which can make hydration treatments uncomfortable on irritated skin).
Find a trusted provider offering both treatments in your area and book a consultation to determine which exfoliation method fits your skin and lifestyle.