A new home with no prior owners sounds perfect—until you discover foundation cracks or missing insulation on move-in day. New construction inspections are different from resale inspections, requiring you to verify that builders actually followed codes and specifications during construction. This guide shows you exactly what to check before signing final paperwork.
Why New Construction Inspections Matter
Builders are incentivized to finish quickly and move to the next project. Inspectors hired by developers have a financial relationship with those same developers, creating a conflict of interest. A third-party inspection protects you by documenting defects before you close, giving you leverage to demand repairs or credits before you own the property outright.
Schedule the Right Inspection Timing
Request a final walkthrough inspection during the last week before closing, ideally 3–5 days out. This timing lets the builder still make corrections without delaying your closing. Some builders resist late inspections, but you have leverage: closing depends on final approval. If the builder pushes back, consider it a red flag about their quality standards.
Check the Foundation and Structural Elements
Look for:
- Cracks wider than 1/8 inch in the foundation or basement walls—these may indicate settling issues or poor concrete work
- Water stains or efflorescence (white, chalky deposits) on basement walls, suggesting moisture infiltration
- Uneven or sloping floors, especially in kitchens and bathrooms where water damage becomes critical
- Missing or incomplete framing in attics, crawlspaces, or mechanical rooms—you shouldn't see gaps between studs or missing blocking
Use a 4-foot level on several floor sections. Slopes greater than 1/4 inch per 10 feet signal potential structural movement.
Inspect Roofing, Siding, and Exterior Seals
Exterior defects cost thousands to fix after closing because they expose your home to weather damage. Check for:
- Missing or lifted shingles
- Gaps where the siding meets trim, windows, and doors
- Caulking that's cracked, missing, or poorly applied around all window and door frames
- Gutters that aren't securely fastened or that sag between downspouts
- Missing flashing around roof penetrations (vents, chimneys)
Walk the perimeter slowly. Builders often rush exterior finishing because it's not visible inside the home.
Verify HVAC Installation and Function
Test every thermostat and register. The HVAC system should:
- Cool the home to 75°F within 15 minutes of running in summer conditions
- Heat to 68°F within 15 minutes in winter (or per contract specs)
- Produce equal airflow from all registers—hold a tissue near each vent to check
- Display correct refrigerant charge (not your job to measure, but the system shouldn't cycle on/off rapidly)
Ask for paperwork showing the HVAC system was pressure-tested and cleared of debris before installation. Builders sometimes skip this, leaving construction dust clogging coils and ducts.
Test Plumbing, Electrical, and Appliances
Run all faucets and drains simultaneously to check water pressure. Low pressure in one area suggests installation issues; low pressure everywhere means a problem with the service line. Check:
- Hot water arrival time at all fixtures (should be under 30 seconds)
- All outlets and switches for proper operation (use a plug-in outlet tester—$10)
- Appliances for completeness and function; verify serial numbers match the contract
- Dishwasher, range, and microwave cycle properly
- Garage door opener, garage outlets, and exterior lighting
Take photos of any non-functional outlets or appliances for your repair list.
Document Everything in Writing
Create a defect list with photos and descriptions. Use language like "kitchen faucet produces low hot water pressure" instead of "kitchen sink broken." Specific language prevents builders from arguing about whether something actually needs fixing.
Most builder contracts include a punch-list period (30–90 days after closing) for final repairs. However, items documented before closing are the builder's responsibility and cost. You want as much as possible fixed before closing, not after.
Get Help from Professionals
Hire an independent home inspector experienced with new construction, not someone who inspects only resales. New construction specialists understand builder-standard defects and what's negotiable. Expect to pay $400–$700 for a thorough inspection in most markets.
Platforms like Mercoly help you compare and find trusted new construction inspectors and builders in one place, simplifying the vetting process.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I negotiate repairs after closing if my inspector finds problems? A: Yes, but you have much less leverage. Most builder warranties cover major systems for one year, but cosmetic and minor defects documented during final walkthrough are the builder's pre-closing responsibility. Always document defects before you sign final papers.
Q: How much weight should I give to the builder's pre-delivery inspection report? A: Use it as reference only—it's not a substitute for an independent inspector. Builder reports often miss issues because inspectors are under pressure to clear homes quickly.
Q: What's the typical timeline between my inspection and closing? A: Plan for 3–7 days. This window gives the builder time to schedule repairs without holding up your closing date, and gives you time to verify fixes were completed.
Use this checklist at your final walkthrough, bring a camera, and insist on written documentation of any defects the builder agrees to fix.