If you're ordering custom apparel, you've likely hit the same fork in the road: screen printing or direct-to-garment (DTG). Both deliver wearable designs, but they differ dramatically in cost, speed, and final look—and choosing the wrong method can mean overpaying or settling for quality you didn't want.
Screen Printing: The Classic, Cost-Effective Route
Screen printing remains the workhorse of custom apparel. It works by pushing ink through a mesh screen onto fabric, one color at a time. For bulk orders, it's genuinely unbeatable on price per unit.
Cost breakdown: Setup (screens and artwork prep) runs $50–$150 per color. Then expect $3–$8 per shirt for a single-color print on a standard tee, dropping to $1.50–$3 per shirt at 500+ units. If you're ordering 50 shirts with a three-color design, you're looking at roughly $400–$800 total. Jump to 500 shirts, and per-unit cost plummets.
Turnaround time: Most shops quote 5–10 business days after artwork approval, longer during peak seasons (April–June for corporate orders, September for back-to-school).
Quality considerations: Colors stay vibrant and feel durable through dozens of washes. Halftone effects and fine detail require skill; amateur screen printers produce blurry edges. Ink sits on top of fabric, so overly stiff prints on cheap shirts feel plasticky. White ink over dark fabric demands double-hits (two passes), adding cost.
Direct-to-Garment: The Fast, High-Detail Alternative
DTG printing treats your shirt like an inkjet printer—a specialized machine sprays water-based ink directly onto fabric. It's newer, more flexible, and ideal for small runs or complex multicolor designs.
Cost breakdown: No setup fees, period. Per-shirt costs range $5–$12 depending on print coverage and garment quality. A 10-shirt order with full-color photography costs roughly $50–$120 total; 100 shirts drops to $500–$1,200. The volume discount is gentler than screen printing, making DTG expensive at scale.
Turnaround time: 2–3 business days typical. Some shops offer next-day or 24-hour service, especially for single orders.
Quality considerations: Colors are crisp and photorealistic; gradients and detailed artwork shine. Print durability is respectable—modern inks last 50+ washes—but whites can yellow slightly over time on dark garments. Thick ink coverage can feel slightly stiff initially; most soften after one wash. Image fidelity suffers on cheap, rough fabric; DTG works best on quality 100% cotton or cotton-poly blends.
Which Method Fits Your Needs?
Choose screen printing if:
- Ordering 100+ units (cost advantage kicks in hard)
- Design is simple (1–3 solid colors)
- You need durability for workwear, sports teams, or repeated promotional use
- Budget is tight and timeline is flexible
Choose direct-to-garment if:
- Ordering fewer than 50 shirts
- Design includes photo, gradient, or complex multicolor elements
- You need fast turnaround
- Each shirt might vary slightly (personalization with different names, for example)
Hybrid Approach: Front and Back
Some orders split methods. Screen print a solid logo on the front, DTG a detailed back graphic. Costs more than one method alone but less than DTG-only for a complex two-sided design. Ask providers if they offer this mix.
What to Ask Your Printer
- Fabric quality: What's the base weight and fiber content? Cheap blanks sabotage both methods.
- Color accuracy: Request samples if your brand colors matter.
- Setup and rush fees: These creep into quotes; clarify upfront.
- Wash test results: Reputable shops run actual durability tests and share findings.
If you're comparing quotes across providers, Mercoly lets you request quotes from multiple trusted custom apparel printers simultaneously, so you see pricing and capabilities side-by-side without endless back-and-forth.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How many shirts do I need to order to make screen printing cheaper than DTG? A: Around 75–100 units; below that, DTG's lack of setup fees makes it more affordable overall. Break-even varies by design complexity and provider pricing.
Q: Can screen printing handle full-color photographic designs? A: Technically yes, through separations and halftone screens, but it's labor-intensive and expensive. DTG is the right tool for photo-realistic work.
Q: Will the print crack or fade after washing? A: Quality screen printing and DTG both last 50+ washes if done right; the difference is negligible. Cheap fabric and improper curing are the real culprits.
Find a printer who samples first and guarantees results—get quotes today and compare.